12 Udaipur, India

When we first started planning our Rajasthani adventure back in Delhi, a Shanti Home employee told us we would never want to leave the relaxing lakes of Udaipur. Little did we realize at the time just how long we would, in fact, call Udaipur home.

The gameplan for the rest of our time in India was to take the 12-hour night train from Agra all the way out to Udaipur, and then work our way back through Rajasthan to Delhi stopping in Jodhpur, Jaipur, and any other "pur" along the way. We arrived in Udaipur at 7am, checked into Bhanwar Vilas hotel, and commenced with our usual introductory wander around town. By the time we sat down for lunch four hours later, Patrick was having some major abdominal pain. We figured we would relax in our cool and comfortable hotel room until the storm blew over.

When the sun set and Patrick was still in pain we decided to go to the hospital. Our best option for transport was autorickshaw--a 3.5 km ride careening through narrow streets that Patrick remembers as "like a Disney World ride" and Katrina remembers as very messy. It didn't take long for the hospital to diagnose kidney stones and we moved in to the room in which we'd live for the next five days. It was definitely not what we would expect from a hospital room: two beds that looked like something Orphan Annie would sing about, something resembling a coat hanger coming from the wall on which they hung Patrick's IV drip, a bedside table lined with old newspaper, and a small, unlined, pink plastic trash bin under the bed that was used for all disposals. There was no soap, let alone toilet paper, in the attached bathroom. This did not inspire confidence.After a series of sonograms and x-rays (delayed by Patrick's inability to "pass a motion" as they called it, and we aren't referring to a legislative point of order) it was determined that the stone was so massive that it was completely blocking his left kidney function and two procedures would need to be done. Patrick decided to undergo only the time-sensitive procedure in Udaipur so as to minimize our stay there, and then we'd go back to Delhi to finish fixing him up.

It's pretty scary to deal with any medical emergency, but even more so when things are getting lost in translation. There were not only language barriers but also subtleties in ways of communicating. Sometimes interpreting gestures was like being diagnosed by a Magic 8 ball...do repetitive side head bobs mean yes, no, or "ask again later"? And we hadn't realized the importance of verb tenses. The stone blockage is damaging, has damaged, or will damage the kidney? We spent about a half hour with multiple doctors on that one.

We were relieved to be discharged and had about 24 hours in Udaipur before our appointment with a urologist in Delhi. This meant that we finally, after a week of being in town, had a chance to see the City Palace that is Udaipur's main attraction. This palace is the largest and one of the oldest in Rajasthan--and absolutely beautiful. We saw tiled mosaics, Indian-style stained glass, and meticulously carved marble screens as we hiked through the massive maze of halls and courtyards.

Our discharge was also very timely as it coincided with Diwali. Many Indians described this holiday as their version of Christmas, a comparison reinforced by the hundreds of commercials we'd watched during our week in the hospital advertising presents for Diwali. There is gift giving, exchanging of sweets, and a big emphasis on lights. From our rooftop deck that night at Bhanwar Vilas we saw Udaipur aglow with buildings shrouded in strings of lights, kids setting off firecrackers from the streets below, and fireworks shooting from a dozen roofs around us. It was a very Happy Diwali.

The next day we flew to Delhi to complete Patrick's treatment with a surgical stone removal at the wonderful Artemis Hospital. Here we became familiar with the term "medical tourism": Artemis is a destination for Americans undergoing expensive procedures not covered by their insurance back home, which they can get at a fraction of the cost in India. There were seven other "international" patients on our floor alone. They took great care of us during our four day stay, and we've collected their brochures on rhinoplasty, breast enhancement, and botox to bring home for anyone looking for budget plastic surgery.

Leaving Artmeis was nothing short of excellent, if for no other reason than to be liberated from Indian hospital food. It might be a while before Patrick goes near Masala anything again. What Patrick will miss though is his weekly pre-op "Indian". After a few days laying low in a hotel room to complete Patrick's recovery it is now off to southeast Asia to start a new, hopefully calculi-free chapter of the trip!

View more pictures from Udaipur here.

3 Agra, India

At the top of many a traveler to India's to see list is the Taj Mahal. Katrina saw it on her first day in India last year, and it was our first destination on this trip after leaving Delhi.

The ride on the rails to Agra took about four hours, most of which we spent snacking on delicious sweet burfi and 10 cent chai from the vendors that came up and down the aisle. Arriving after dark, hot and sweaty, we ignored our inner bargainers and crashed at the first hotel we found. We were happy that our sleepiness distracted us from the mosquitos that infested our run-down room. It wasn't until the next morning when we made our way to the rooftop restaurant for breakfast that we realized that a few floors above our room at Shanti Lodge were rivaled breathtaking views of the Taj Mahal. We say rivaled because there were more than a handul of similar hovels with rooftop views within spitting distance. Regardless, it was a pretty nice backdrop for sipping chai and eating stuffed paranthas.

It took us less than five minutes to arrive at the south gate entrance where there was no line or crowds, leaving us somewhat unsure if we were in the right place. Thankfully, an eight-year-old directed us where to buy tickets and invited us to visit "his shop" after. It was as if he had been working the street for years, which wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility.Next thing you know we were in the presence of the Taj Mahal! Katrina got the introductions out of the way quickly..."Taj Mahal meet Patrick. Patrick...Taj Mahal." The sun relentlessly beat down on us as we walked along the long reflecting pool, through the green, manicured grounds and up to the tomb. What can we say? It's incredible. Smooth white marble, inlayed gems, everything in massive proportions...yeah, the Taj Mahal is pretty cool.

Agra, on the other hand, is pretty miserable. The town is dumpy with children gathering fresh cow piles off the street as a valued commodity. Tourists are essentially stalked by shopowners inviting them into their kitsch caves, rickshaw drivers selling rides, and beggars of all ages pleading for spare rupees. It's a very sad place and we were eager to leave as soon as we were done with our Taj visit.

Patrick did get a much needed haircut, though, before we skipped town. It didn't surprise us when the trim turned into a shave, head massage, and then facial as the barber held him hostage for rupees, but Patrick was happy to spend $4 USD on a full grooming. Little did he know how timely the trip was...the only thing worse than passing a kidney stone is doing so with shaggy hair. And by passing a kidney stone we mean spending a week in the hospital to have a kidney stone surgically removed. But more on that next time...

View more pictures from Agra here.

5 Delhi, India

Our first day in India corresponded with Katrina's birthday, so as a special treat we'd arranged to stay at the lovely Shanti Home, complete with airport pickup. It was a luxurious way to start our India leg, with garlands of marigolds to greet us, a huge four-post bed, and a romantic open-air rooftop restaurant. In fact it was so fantastic it was difficult to make ourselves leave at all, but the lure of exploring Delhi managed to persuade us out by late morning of our first day.

When deciding on how to get from point A to point B in Delhi you have many options, all cheap. We were surprised to find that one of these was a metro system and really didn't know what to expect. It was a brief walk to the nearest station from Shanti Home and when we arrived we were frisked, bag inspected, and then admitted to the platform. From there it was smooth sailing: the stations and trains are very modern (they should be since the whole system is only a few years old) and it stops at many convenient stations for sightseeing. Plus no ride seems to cost more than 40 US cents--no wonder it's so popular! Which makes for the one downside of the metro: sooooooo crowded. We had to be careful not to be in the way at major connecting stations or risk getting trampled.The metro dropped us off in the heart of Old Delhi and we meandered through the bustling streets full of rickshaws, wheelbarrows, street vendors, and stray animals of all varieties to make our way to the Red Fort. One of Shah Jahan's many grand constructions, the fort is today generally dilapidated with a few of the main structures still intact including a balcony from which the Mughal Emperor would address his subjects every morning. It seemed that the fort complex's primary use is a quiet greenspace oasis for Indian families to stroll, relax, and enjoy a lazy Saturday.

Across the street from Red Fort is Jama Masjid Mosque, the largest mosque in India. It is a huge, open-air affair and our shoeless feet burned up on the sunbaked stone floor. Not wanting to put his grubby, smelly sneakers back on, Patrick took advantage of the bazaar directly outside the entrance to bargain for a new pair. The Reeboks now gracing his feet have ridiculous sized tongues--it looks like they are swollen from a massive beating. But no one can argue with $3 USD for clean, new shoes.

With the metro off our transport checklist we took a cycle rickshaw ride from Old to New Delhi and arrived in bustling Connaught Place, a huge circular shopping area in the heart of downtown. From there we walked to India Gate and down the Rajpath to Parliament at sunset. It's a beautiful stretch that reminded us alot of the National Mall in DC.

The next day we hired a taxi to take us out to the gigantic Akshardham complex. The ornamentation on the temples, gates, and shaded walkways is almost overwhelming, as everywhere you turn is a new detail to examine. The mindblowing thing is that the thousands of tons of sandstone sculptures we saw are modern: the whole thing was built within the last ten years! We found it really interesting to see this traditional Indian architecture in a contemporary style and in impeccable condition.

From Akshardham we negotiated an autorickshaw to take us to Humayun's Tomb. The first thing we saw after entering was a crumbling protective wall around a large ancient tomb--not Humayun's. We had free reign to climb on the walls and up to the tomb's second story; it was hard to believe this wasn't the main attraction. Until we saw it. We walked through another large gate, this one of red sandstone, to find Humayun's Tomb in all its glory. A beautiful edifice of sandstone and marble, there are several chambers housing hundreds of royal tombs, all splashed with light streaming in through intricately carved stone screens. It turns out the tomb was actually a precursor to and model for the Taj Mahal. Which made it a perfect last stop before hopping on the next train at nearby Nizamuddin Station to Agra.

View more pictures from Delhi here.

3 India

Through my work for the Unitarian Universalist Association, I get to travel frequently around the country to meet with generous supporters of the Association. This fall, I was given a unique opportunity to travel to India to see schools being built in the Khasi Hills, where there is an indigenous Unitarian population, made possible by donations through the Association. Patrick obviously would have loved to join me, but his own work responsibilities kept him in Boston.

My trip began with a tour of the Golden Triangle before heading further east to the Khasi Hills. The morning after my arrival in Delhi, I took a two hour train to Agra, which was a piece of cake after spending 14 hours on a plane the day before. The trains are comfortable and even serve hot breakfast, but make sure to reserve a seat in an air conditioned car. Agra is known as the city of monuments, the crown jewel of course being the Taj Mahal. This magnificent mausoleum was built by Shah Jahan in honor of his favorite wife, and the detailing is truly impressive; seemingly painted characters are actually perfectly inlayed marble in marble. The next stop was the Red Fort, where Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his son. From his room you can see a beautiful view of the Taj. It is so sad to think of him spending the last years of his life longing for freedom and within sight of his cherished memorial.

It is hard to avoid crowds of tourists when in the Golden Triangle but our next stop, the Baby Taj, was a surprising escape. Don't be fooled by the nickname: the only relation to the Taj Mahal is an architectural resemblance. It is much smaller but very beautiful, and the quiet lawn is dotted with dozens of monkeys out to play.

While in Agra I stayed at the Grand Imperial Hotel, a converted palace with plenty of thoughtful details and a lovely courtyard that is visited by a variety of birds and monkeys. The restaurant is also fantastic and serves the best kulfi (Indian ice cream made of goat's milk, pistachios and spices) that I had on the trip.

The next stop on the tour was Jaipur, about a five hour drive from Agra. My favorite Golden Triangle site was actually a stop along this drive: Fatehpur Sikri. It is a sprawling palace built by Emperor Akbar, who was so dedicated to his interfaith belief system that his three wives all came from different religious traditions: one Hindu, one Muslim and one Christian. Each wife had her own living and eating area, but these all reflected elements and symbols from the others' faiths. A definite must see!

Jaipur is known as the "Pink City" for the terra cotta colored edifices that line its streets. In the old city it is mandatory that buildings be painted to conform with the city's moniker. Jaipur is not only known for the color of it's buildings but also for the grandness of them. Notable of the cities many palaces are The Palace of the Lake and Palace of the Winds, both brief stops. The former is built in the middle of a lake and not open to visitors, and the latter is actually simply a facade. Open to visitors is Jaipur City Palace, which is now a collection of museums and a center for local artisans. But the main attraction is Amber Fort built high on the hills. One can take an elephant ride up to the top which is a major thrill and highly recommended, but make sure to tip your driver to avoid them encouraging elephant mischief as you try to dismount! My favorite thing about Amber Fort was the Kali Temple located inside its walls. I was fortunate enough to be visiting during the festival that honors the Hindu goddess Kali, and so there was much ado and many worshipers visiting on that day.

Another interesting site in Jaipur is Jantar Mantar, which is an observatory filled with tools to measure time and make astrological predictions. The world's largest sundial is located here, which can unbelievably tell time within a two second margin of error.

Accommodations in Jaipur were at the Alsisar Haveli. Located right off of a busy street, you are shocked to find this quiet oasis down a driveway between run-down storefronts. A haveli is essentially an Indian mansion, and each room in this one was unique, comfortable, and tastefully decorated.

Unfortunately I was not able to spend time in the third corner of the Golden Triangle, Delhi, due to the time constraints of this work trip. I was fortunate enough to have a guide and

driver while touring the sites above and I would highly recommended the same for anyone else for several reasons. First, driving is crazy in India, and I say that as someone who can navigate through Boston traffic no problem. I cannot imagine even attempting to drive there. Secondly, written narratives at tourist attractions are practically nonexistant. It would be very difficult to understand what you are seeing without a guide. Most importantly, India is really another world. As someone who has done a good deal of foreign traveling, I still found it very difficult to get around without local guidance or direction. It is very inexpensive to hire a guide, and almost all travelers that I saw--from backpackers to affluent tour groups--had a guide with them.

After days of sightseeing it was time to get down to business. I flew to Guwahati for the work portion of my trip and then drove another three hours on a very bumpy road to get to Shillong, the main hub of the Khasi Hills. Visiting Indian villages is a drastically different experience from touring the big cities of the Golden Triangle. In both, white skin and western clothes immediately sets one apart. In Agra and Jaipur, this marks a person as someone with money, and I was swarmed by beggars and hawkers outside every attraction. This made it very hard to be a visitor, and deeply sad in many ways. In the villages I was seen more as alien. Kids would point at me and whisper to their parents, while some warmed to me and would giggle when I waved.

The people in the Khasi Hills were welcoming, gracious, and generous. I was visiting a school built by donations from the West, and the students prepared songs and dances to welcome us. The presented us with gifts upon gifts--traditional Khasi necklaces, beautiful shawls, and handwoven sieves and bowls. It was a special experience to spend time in such a place, so many worlds apart from my home.

It took me almost 36 hours straight of travel time to return to Boston at the end of the trip; I was exhausted and glad to be back. India is an amazing, beautiful, fascinating, and also heartbreaking place. I have never before felt so far away from home.